The 2020 HODINKEE Talking Watches Tournament, Day 1

[thadeam2002]

The IWC Mark XV link is still relatively affordable on the secondary market and usually more so than its Mark XII (especially examples in nice condition).The dial also prominently features a white 100-unit scale and the 1/10th-of-a-second scale on the rehaut.Only when I showed the news to my watch savvy wife, she said I have to get Farer Bernina too.


Of course, it's heavily inspired by the five-digit Explorer link II, but it's executed well, and it blends perfectly with the design as a whole.As we're used to with the Santos, its case is vertically brushed and has a polished bevel on both sides.The decision to make this watch essentially anonymous feels appropriate for a design that plays off of a popular historical trope. Close your eyes and think "early pilot watch," and it's likely that something like what you see here comes to mind. Dials much like this one can be found in the catalogs of a number of brands making watches in the 1920s, most notably Zenith, but there are many others, too.The last handful of years in the world of Universal Genève have been really interesting to watch. Once near the center of the vintage collector universe, interest in UG has sunk back into the outskirts of the watch zeitgeist. This is not to say that buying and selling of great Universal Genève watches has slowed down – that really is not the case. In fact, Phillips auctioned off three top examples during this Spring's auction season, all of which brought impressive sums, far over estimate.


We discover stylistic signatures intrinsic to the collection on each reference. The octagonal bezel embraces a composition that’s well-known to all aficionados of the brand. The "Mega Tapisserie" checkerboard motif dials are decorated link with a choice of khaki green, gray or navy blue. These same hues also adorn the matching interchangeable rubber straps.Finally, there's the Tambour Taiko Spin Time Flying Tourbillon. This version, with the same 42.5mm white gold case as the Antipode, has an impressive-looking flying tourbillon mechanism right at the heart of the dial. Now that we've seen an overview of the new collection, it's time to go a bit deeper into each new variation.To realize this multistep process, Straum worked with experts from Norway, Scotland, Switzerland, and China.






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[FarmanTullax]

0:51 link End of Year Episodes: Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 6:12 link Urban Jurgensen6:54 Longines Heritage models10:51 Special Link From Bruichladdich12:40 Grand Seiko link SLGW00314:22 Flight Qualitifed Omega Speedmaster19:50 Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT27:40 Rolex Sea-Dweller31:33 Cariter Coussin de Cartier32:00 Cartier Santos Dumont Rewind 38:04 Shellman Side Slide Minute Repeater
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