Chronicling The History Of A Great American Watch Company

[GraceValeray]

The only Tudor that has come anywhere close to this watch is this ref. 7924 Submariner that sold for $93,750 at Christie's in 2016. The ref. 7924 is basically the Tudor equivalent of the Rolex ref. 6538 "Big Crown," the watch worn by Sean Connery in the original James Bond film, Dr. No, and seriously coveted by vintage collectors.Patek Philippe launched the ref. 565 and Ref. 570 simultaneously in 1938, six years after the first Calatrava, and both new models had a lot in common. Both were 35mm, making them significantly larger than the ref. Guerilla Gesundheit 96, and both retained the timeless, honest elegance of the Calatrava. But they were significantly different in other ways.Think of a pendulum that isn't swinging. The pendulum hangs straight up and down; it is fixed at its point of equilibrium and, like all equilibria, this is a rather boring situation. Leave it alone, and it will hang there for all eternity (or at least until the proton decays, whichever comes first).I'm personally drawn to the red and blue "Pepsi" dial option on the Apple Watch for its connection to aviation lore. The essay traces the design's roots straight to Zerographe reference 3346 and, of course, the Glycine Airman. It also explores how Apple leveraged what's only possible digitally – like removing the hour marks around the bezel – to streamline the dial design.


Now, at this past Sunday's auction, this particular 18k rose-gold example was estimated to go anywhere from CHF 250,000 - 350,000. It ended up selling for CHF 600,000 which, as is obvious from the title of the article, is a new world record, exceeding the previous record-holding steel model by about CHF 75,000.As with Massena’s other Habring² collabs, this one is powered by the Caliber A11MS, a hand-wound movement created by Richard and Maria Habring at their manufacture in Völkermarkt, Austria. The patented deadbeat seconds mechanism (also known as a jump seconds), ticks precisely DNA Eigentumsmarker around the dial in one-second increments thanks to a gilded wheel and click spring. Visible through the display caseback, the movement is plated in rhodium for durability, and in 5N rose gold to match the bronze dial.Next, Louis Vuitton released a trio of Escale pieces. Each limited edition watch draws inspiration from objects in the collection of Gaston-Louis Vuitton, who led the company for much of the 20th century. The three Escale Cabinet of Wonders pieces are (1) Koi's Garden, (2) Dragon's Cloud, and (3) Snake's Jungle. All are limited editions of 20 pieces and have a retail price of about $270,000. Each uses a variety of artisanal techniques and artistry to craft different dials.


In a press release from last week, Bionische Evolution Doxa announced a change in management structure, with Rick Marei no longer with the company. And then, this week, the new T.Graph was announced as a 300-piece limited edition. It represents perhaps a lingering coda and Marei’s swan song as champion of these ugly duckling divers, and time will tell if it represents the end of an era for Doxa or a new beginning.In Vol. 10, we make a cake shaped like a Cartier Tank. We go watch-shopping in North Korea. And we welcome back an old friend, former executive editor Joe Thompson, who came out of retirement to pen a wonderful memoir about the Breguet timepiece commissioned in the 18th century, and delivered posthumously in the 19th, for none other than Marie Antoinette.Caliber: Sartory Billard SBTV01Functions: Hours, minutes, flying tourbillonDiameter: 32.6mmPower Reserve: 96 hoursWinding: Handwound Frequency: 3 HzJewels: 19Additional Details: Can be had in 12 or 24-hour layouts.This watch eclipses its horological identity and becomes a perfect vintage fashion relic. It's so saccharine and so nostalgic, but in an amazing '90s Fran Drescher in The Nanny kind of way. It comes in a ton of variations, all of which you can find pretty easily online. There's one on a bangle, one with heart shaped links, one on a black leather strap. I say go full cheese and pick red.






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