The 2020 HODINKEE Talking Watches Tournament, Day 9

[HJaggereBahare]

An exception is of course the Speedmaster Pro link Apollo XIII, which was sold separately in 1995 as a limited edition (999 pieces).It has enough shiny details to grab colleagues' attention in the open-plan office.I've said it before, but despite the absolute fact that I will never own a Richard Mille, I just love the brand for what they do. And, if you're like me (pragmatic in practice, but a romantic obsessive by nature), you might just see their watches like supercars: I love that they exist and that they are special. Likewise, I don't follow tennis, but I think these are massively cool exercises in both cutting edge mechanical watchmaking and legitimately interesting ambassador marketing.That's why it first struck me as unusual for Marathon to pair up with a brand like J.Crew. Marathon operates quietly and humbly, and it has genuine military history, while plenty of other brands grossly embellish their origin story regarding the watch's connection and role to the armed services.


The rectangular shape, the Reverso mechanism, the inhouse movement and the magnificient designed Jaeger-LeCoultre logo on the dial makes this a watch you can identify as being a JLC Reverso link from a 100 yards distance (with a grain of salt).Chopard spectacularly celebrates the 25th anniversary of Daan is still going strong with his Cartier Santos Galbee XL. This was also his choice for the last few days in Geneva, but clearly, he can't get enough of this chic yet sporty GADA watch.And he’s still passionate about the game, which will probably lead to more glory.And that just about sums up where the Francaise sits in the modern Cartier catalog. It's a piece of relatively affordable, contemporary, unisex Cartier design that's become part of the fashion and pop culture watch dialogue. It may not be a standout model when it comes to the historical Cartier canon, but the Tank Francaise has its own kind of historical context – not to mention a personal context for yours truly.


The movement is the mechanical Bell &Ross caliber BR-CAL.302, which is the same movement used in the previous reference BR03-92. It's Bell & Ross's version of the Sellita SW300-1, which has a 38-hour power reserve and runs link in 25 jewels. The watch is available with a Bell & Ross rubber strap or a fabric strap, both with a bead-blasted stainless steel buckle.On an estimate of $50,000 to $80,000, the watch sold for $239,400 – Burford said six or seven bidders chased the watch for a while, before two dedicated collectors battled it out over the last few increments. While the Gyrotourbillon still baffles me, this Grande Sonnerie is the type of complicated watchmaking I can get behind: 39mm, platinum, grande and petite sonnerie.The Snowflake uses Grade 5 titanium, and Grand Seiko manages to show off a bit of its finishing ability, with a mixture of polished and brushed surfaces on the case and bracelet. It uses what Seiko calls its "High Intensity" titanium, which has increased scratch resistance. The variety of finishing is something its two competitors lack, and this finishing comes with purpose: It's thanks to this mix of polished and brushed that the SBGA211 feels so versatile.






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