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CREMINI MUSHROOMS Jeff Beukeboom Rangers Jersey , DANTE CHEESE THIN Nick Lessins, the chefowner of Great Lake, is not just in a league of his own; he's the only one playing his particular sport. You may have heard him called a genius, a god, or a grump, depending on whom you ask and how long they waited for their pizza, but I've spent enough time in his tiny Andersonville storefront to conclude that he is none of the above. Lessins-a man with two college degrees and no car-is simply more dedicated and consistent than the competition. Whether the line is out the door or he's stone alone, the Detroit native focuses on his craft rather than his customers, a fact that a percentage of the public will never understand, much less accept. But he's exactly the same as he was before GQ, Food & Wine, The New York Times, and everyone else began telling him how great he was. Maybe better. The creations he shapes so meticulously at his 12-seat BYO are launching pads to remarkable galaxies of flavor that no other Chicago pizzamaker comes close to matching. In his inspired combinations (only three options a night, depending on how Lessins feels and what he finds at the market), smoked bacon may dance with viscous cr?me fra?che and chives; roasted sunchokes might whisper sweet nothings to sheep's milk cheese. His latest beauty has a legion of thin, black-peppery cremini mushrooms sinking into decadent aged Dante cheese on a dynamic, bulbous crust. The bread's collar emphasizes a minuscule crispy exterior embedded with sea salt; its interior is impossibly airy. How Lessins coaxes such miracles from his tiny Montague HearthBake gas oven is one of Chicago's great mysteries and treasures. 2. PIECE - PLAIN WITH ARTICHOKE HEARTS (NEW HAVEN) When Billy Jacobs opened Piece in 2001, he was told New Haven- style pizza would go over like a lead pepperoni in Deep-Dish Land. Wrong. Piece's astonishing plain pie (sauce, garlic, Parmesan, and oil on a chewy-crisp, hand-formed crust) replicates New Haven's legendary Sally's Apizza without the coal oven (Piece uses a Middleby gas oven). For Jacobs, a Connecticut native whose great-uncle's produce market was intertwined with Sally's in the 1940s Mark Messier Rangers Jersey , the sun still rises and sets in New Haven. "I can confidently say that the third-, fourth-, or even fifth-best pie in New Haven would be the best pie almost anywhere else," he boasts. And you thought New Yorkers were pizza snobs. 3.