Introducing: The Longines Spirit Pilot"s Watch In 40mm And 42mm

[KarliAbdul]

Case in point: Halfway into my 40s, I told my wife that when I turned 50, I wanted an A. Lange & Söhne. I'd visited Glashütte a few times, fell for what the brand stood for, and decided this was the right falsi montblanc orologi aspirational watch, appropriate for a 50-year-old. But somewhere along the way, I realized if I owned a Lange, I'd never wear it. Considering the abuse I doled out on my 40th birthday present, I knew a hand-made splash-resistant German timepiece wouldn't see my 60th.This brings me to a quartet of brand new SPB divers, the 143, 145, 147, and 149. Now sized at a not-common-to-Seiko 40.5mm (also 13.2mm thick, and 47.6mm lug to lug), these new models also offer a dial design that is much, much closer to that of the SLA017 and its dear old daddy, the 62MAS.It was through seeing that that I picked up my own watch-wearing habits. One of my most worn watches is, likewise, a Submariner with an acrylic crystal. It was built to be a tool, and I have used it as such. You see, you can drop a watch with an acrylic crystal on the ground, and it won't shatter. There is real peace of mind to be had from that.Everything. To me, it's the epitome of what traditional enthusiasts wish Hublot would do. The Classic Fusion line is something of a remix of the original Hublot design. Within the collection, specifically the three-hand sub-collection, you'll find pieces ranging from 33mm to 45mm.The Five Time Zone was a luxury item for a demographic that luxury was not paying attention to. Arabo was quick to recognize what his clientele would respond to when it came to watch design. He created the Five Time Zone to go with people's clothes: the matching tracksuits, oversized puffers and baggy denim. He created it to go with a specific lifestyle in mind, and even if someone wasn't living that life yet they could aspire to it.While this series is largely dedicated to rounding up themes around contemporary watches, from time to time, I am given the green light to shake things up, and, with the permission of our wonderful photography team, I am appeased to do something a bit more stylistically involved for the week. Lucky for you, this week is one of those weeks.


While the playing field has changed a bit since Tudor brought the Black Bay GMT to market (watches like the 44mm Mido Ocean Star GMT now offer local jumping for well under $1,500 via ETA's C07.661 – a movement I cannot wait to see in more watches), this new Norqain looks to compete in the same range as the Black Bay GMT and carries a price of $3,590 in steel with a leather strap, $3,860 with a billige patek-philippe ure steel bracelet, and $3,890 for one of the 300-piece bronze limited edition.The watches at the Space Center aren't the only historical Speedmasters worth checking out in Houston. Over in the Museum District – a neighborhood jam-packed with 19 world-class museums – you'll find both the Mercury-Atlas 2 capsule and Ed White's worn Gemini 4 space suit on display at the Houston Museum of Natural Science. Visible on the wrist of White's suit? A Speedmaster, naturally.This watch is not a red lip, classic and glamorous. It's much closer to a rebellious smear of blush – bold and intentional, announcing its presence and self-aware glamor. The watchmaking bonafides that Chanel has steadily accumulated over the years make it a heavy-hitter in its own way. And in a world of steel copycats, this watch dares to be different, demands to be taken seriously, and is fully, completely, Chanel.Caliber: Calibre Heuer 02Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronographDiameter: 31mmThickness: 6.9mmPower Reserve: 80 hoursWinding: AutomaticFrequency: 4 Hz / 28,800vphJewels: 33Chronometer Certified: N/AAdditional Details: 168 total components; three-six-nine chronograph registers; unidirectional winding; Kif shock absorption; hacking seconds; red column wheel


Today’s example is a stunning one, which would have left the goedkope jaeger-lecoultre horloge factory later on in the reference’s production. It’s being offered in unpolished condition, with an untouched dial, handset, and perfect bakelite bezel. When Spirotechniques pop up for sale, which is by no means often, the bezel has usually been replaced or is in a state that I’d describe as "less than ideal," which is why this one caught my attention. The original roulette date wheel is an added touch I’ve always appreciated as well.Brand: MB&FModel: Legacy Machine FlyingTDiameter: 38.5mmThickness: 20mm (including the bubble-shaped crystal)Case Material: Platinum or red goldDial Color: White lacquer dial over a black or blue guilloché dial plate (produced by Comblémine)Indexes: Roman numeralsLume: NoneWater Resistance: 30 metersStrap/Bracelet: Calf or alligator leather strap with platinum or red gold pin buckleThis is part of the last run of gilt dial 1675s, which would place it around 1964 or '65. The most striking aspect of this example is probably its gold-colored hands, which are rare and which are a bit earlier than the standard hands that we see below. Here, we also see that the pointed crown guards that have typified the cases of the 1675 until this point have been changed for the rounded crown guards that are close to those you might find on a current production GMT-Master II.Interestingly, though there is no vintage green Heuer Carrera, the teal hue feels very mid-century. It looks like the kind of watch you might find packed away in a box collecting dust in the basement – as if the original emerald green faded to a shade cooler than the original.What are you the best at? Tough question, but in watch photography, I think I'm the best at exploring the details of any watch that is in front of me in a way that captures what makes the watch interesting and fun. People always ask what watch has been my favorite to photograph and I always say that it's whatever watch is in front of me and my camera.So what's there to do if you want a stainless steel Grand Seiko with a manual-wind Spring Drive movement? Well, surprise, surprise, Grand Seiko just so happens to be celebrating an anniversary this year.






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