Learn Photo Editing Old School Flash Photography

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When I first got into photography, a flashgun was something that fitted into a camera's accessory shoe, and plugged into a PC socket via a short cable. At its most Learn Photo Editing Review sophisticated level, the PC cable was not required, and the camera and flash both had a hot shoe connection. All it did was produce a burst of bright light, timed to coincide with the camera shutter being fully open. The art of flash photography was all a matter of calculations and best guess adjustments.

The main problem with film flash photography is that the lighting effect cannot be seen until a print has been made. Additionally, the position in which the flashgun is mounted to the camera is less than ideal for some types of photography, portraiture for example, since it produces a very flat light, and casts disagreeable shadows. Good results therefore require the photographer to understand how they can manipulate this set-up, and knowledge stems from careful experimentation and experience.

There are two ingredients to successful film flash photography. The first is correct exposure. Every flashgun has a "guide number" for every speed of film (although the number for 100 ASA/ISO is most frequently used), and that number is based on the flash firing at the subject directly. The higher the guide number, the more powerful the flashgun is, although some manufacture's tended to overstate the capabilities of their products. It's important to know the guide number for your flash.

The second piece of information required to

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calculate the correct exposure is the subject's distance from the camera. If using direct flash with an SLR or rangefinder camera, this measurement will be easy to establish. The exposure calculation is the guide number, divided by distance, and the result equals the required aperture.