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The Least-Expensive TAG Heuer Is One For The Masses

Caliber: In-House Caliber 751Functions: Hours, minutes, chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour totalizersPower Reserve: 65 hours (from two barrels)Winding: AutomaticFrequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)Jewels: 41Additional Details: Chronograph mechanism uses both a column wheel and a vertical clutchWatches like the aforementioned Doxa wear smaller than you'd expect as their lug to lug distance is not much longer than the case width. Similarly, the 41mm Tudor Black Bay GMT feels vastly larger on wrist than this Sinn U50, and that's because the Black Bay is Anti Surveillance Tech quite a bit thicker at 14.75mm (it's also some 5% longer in terms of the case width/length ratio). If you only considered the width, you'd have no ability to predict how differently the two watches wear in real life.Here we present a 36mm neo-vintage AP Royal Oak from the 1990s in full yellow gold. That means a gold tapisserie dial, a full gold RO bracelet, and a gold RO case design. In our opinion, it's that size which is the kicker here. The Royal Oak just wears so nicely in the sub 39mm format, and it's truly hard not to fall head over heels for it in full precious metal mode.Today we see two completely different sides from Grand Seiko from the intensely modern by way of the Kodo to this faithfully constructed vintage recreation. I think it is important for Grand Seiko to continue relying on his back catalog because it helps entrench the brand in the annals of horology.


Oris keeps its ethos light and airy, and producing a watch simply to show a little hometown pride fits right in with the company culture of doing things "just because." The caseback, which wears an embossed Oris Bear, is Industrial Archaeology meant to do one thing according to Co-CEO Rolf Studer: "Make people smile."Hodinkee helped open up the Exhibit last week when Ben Clymer and Lenny Kravitz had a conversation about their shared love for all kinds of collectible things: cars, cameras, and of course, the Reverso. Ben was wearing his Tribute to 1931 U.S. Edition, while Kravitz was showing off the new rose gold Reverso Tribute Chronograph.The dial is inspired by Ryusei Raden's (shooting stars) theme, which reminds you of a meteor shower in a pitch-black night sky. This dreamy view was crafted by master Urushi lacquer artist Isshu Tamura, using carefully laid mother-of-pearl inlays cut into 0.2 mm thick pieces. This MOP craft visualizing a stary night sky with unique color hues is truly mesmerizing. This highly crafted and stunningly beautiful dial is ideal for someone who appreciates visual aesthetics, such as myself.


On the wrist, the watch wears basically true to size, if not slightly smaller due to the black dial. The triangular hour markers are another nice detail with the markers at 12, three, and nine being larger than the others. The circular painted minute markers in white on the interior of the dial allow the shorter Alpha hands to reach every marking on the watch. Overall, despite the inclusion of the date window, the watch maintains a nice balance and symmetry.You talk about L'Instantanée S&A x LIP having double French DNA. When you talk about the DNA of a French watch, what does that mean to you? What sort of historical legacy were you keeping in mind as you designed this piece?Today we've got three great queries in the hopper. You've probably heard the term "Calatrava" applied to Patek Philippe watches but in recent years collectors have started using it as a more general term for a certain kind of watch. What kind of watch, and where did the term come Recession Proofing from? Check out the episode to find out. We've also got a question from a reader who's taking on a new job and wonders whether or not they can get away with wearing a G-Shock to the office.Founded in 2020, RZE has become known for its titanium tool watches, so it's collaborated with Fratello to create a watch fit for adventure. The RZE x Fratello Resolute Contour Pro features a grade 2 titanium case measuring 40mm x 10.5mm (46mm lug-to-lug). These measurements include the flat, AR-coated crystal. The lugs slope slightly down and have drilled lugs (swoon) for easy strap-changing. The Resolute Contour Pro comes on a titanium bracelet with no-tool micro-adjust.






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