Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGJ273 GMT

[HainesAaron]

Over the last few years, I have fallen hard for vintage Seiko. From divers to dress billige hublot ure watches, I have become infatuated with many of the company's historic models. I visited Japan about a year ago, and I couldn't help but visit every watch store and jeweler I saw in hopes of finding a hidden Seiko gem. That trip helped solidify my appreciation for the brand, and as I write this, I'm wearing one of my favorite vintage Seiko watches.Actually, yes, and it doesn't involve a new camera or even much in the way of gear. With a bit of technique, any modern smartphone or casual camera can manage a tidy watch shot for Instagram. For this guide, I'll be using a modern iPhone, some simple craft supplies, a few bucks worth of floor tile, and maybe a white shirt.Ultimately, if you've read any of my past reports on these models, the story is unchanged, with the white gold joining the collection for the first time (with a blue dial, that is) and offering you the choice of a blue lacquered sunburst dial, or a wonderful skeleton dial with blue accents and a gorgeous translucent two-layer moon-phase sub-display.Vacheron Constantin is known to be part of what is called the Holy Trinity of watches, which also includes Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. It just so happens that all three of these brands have an iconic steel sports watch. Patek has the Nautilus, AP has the Royal Oak, and Vacheron the Overseas. The latter has historically sat in the shadows of the other two for one reason or another, but the truth is, it deserves just as much light.


A watch doesn't have to be expensive or rare to make its way into John's collection. It just has billige panerai ure to be interesting. This is one of many eBay finds, and the period bracelet was added long after John first purchased the watch. He loves bold, colorful designs like this and the fact that they get people's attention and give him a reason to strike up a conversation about watches.They found a solution to the so-many-complications problem: a computer. Standard equipment for an engineer, but heresy for an old-world watchmaker. Patek spent $640,000 on the company’s first computer-aided design (CAD) equipment. Over the next several years, the Calibre 89 team made 1,600 design blueprints, which enabled them to make the watch.Similar to Rolex, Tudor rolls things out slowly. The original Black Bay Chrono was a splashy release back in 2017. If there were complaints about that watch, they were certainly centered on the thickness (it did, after all, measure a rather tall 14.9mm in case height).I took a little road trip with my father to pick up the watch. We each bought one that day, which made both purchases extra special. His was a blue dial Datejust 41 – similar to what we now call “The Biden.” When we arrived at the store, The Bruiser was waiting on the counter for me with a price tag around $8,000. After we left, I remember looking at my wrist and feeling a sense of finality – as if this would be the only watch I'd ever need for the rest of my life.The bracelet options are all great and while I never truly was bothered by the Black Bay 58's faux rivets, seeing that the Ranger's bracelet design is so clean and the T-fit clasp is so slick, I immediately wished my BB58 had them. And despite being a "go bracelet or go home" kind of guy, I was shocked at how much I loved the jacquard fabric/James Stacey-style modified NATO.The Baltic x Perpétuel Gallery Tropical Tricompax: 39.5mm x 13.5mm 316L stainless steel case with a flat-link steel bracelet; gradient brown "exotic" dial with Hindu-Arabic cream numerals; aluminum tachymeter bezel; movement: Sellita SW510-M manually-wound chronograph; water resistant to 50m; limited to 200 numbered pieces; price: approximately $2,300 depending on exchange rate; available online at Perpétuel Gallery.


The crown of the Type falsi patek-philippe orologi 390 works in an interesting way as well. You don't pull it out for winding and setting – instead, you rotate it slightly to unlock it, and it pops out on its own, telescoping into position.Lucy, who lives in New York City, received her Jaeger-LeCoultre Ultra Thin Reserve de Marche as a high school graduation present from her father. She loves this model for its case size, power-reserve indicator, calendar – and especially the exhibition caseback. She has sported the watch on her wrist every day since receiving it.Caliber: Patented ROCS-1 (Ressence Orbital Convex System) driven by the minute axle of a customized ETA 2892/A caliberFunctions: Hours, minutes, seconds, day of the weekPower Reserve: 36 hoursWinding: AutomaticFrequency: 28,800 vphJewels: 40Additional details: Caseback winding and setting via lever.Phillips has the estimate of the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon as "on request," and I haven't requested yet. But the limited-edition SLGT003 has an MSRP of $350,000, so you can bet it's at least that much, plus the cost of a Grand Seiko lover's dream trip to Japan.






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