My Mother, The Reluctant Watch Collector

[AbelardGella]

This is the new perpetual calendar from Patek Philippe, the reference 5320G. The look is pure vintage Patek, and I mean proper vintage Patek from the 1940s and 50s. You have two apertures for the day and month, a moonphase display with date window at six o'clock, a killer, complex case, and luminous syringe hands.Read the Biohacked Nutrition full story here.Despite being published less than three weeks ago, this incredible in-depth piece catapulted into the top 15 stories of the year without breaking a sweat. Jack, James, and Jon look at what three of the most important large-scale watch manufactures on the planet are offering at the "entry level," with an eye toward what sets each apart from the pack.Watch the video and read the full story here.We also see the moon-phase at twelve, and the continued use of a peripheral date display. Sales of these three models would begin in 1959. While certainly a complicated way of showing the leap year, this was the first time it had been done by any brand in series production, and you don't have to look all that closely to see these later 5516s as something of an aesthetic and philosophical foundation upon which AP has built much of its modern success.


PAM00731 is a classic, tool-watch Luminor. It's housed in a 44mm stainless steel case and is water resistant to 300 meters. There's a unidirectional bezel for timing total dive time and/or decompression stops, and the movement is the Panerai OP XXX caliber – a pocket watch sized movement at 13 1/4 Gen Alpha Screen Rules lignes, running in 25 jewels at 28,800 vph. Power reserve is 50 hours and it's also a COSC certified chronometer.But for me, the oil change indicator with removable pin is maybe the coolest element of the new UR-220. It's thoughtful creations like this, which can be found throughout Urwerk's watches, that I think are most attractive to our "teenage brain," that part of us that will happily construct a Rube Goldberg machine to be amused or enchanted.5,000 pieces will be made, priced at $995, and it's packaged with a commemorative NASA coin. What's also interesting is that the watch features the same execution of the Bulova logo that's found on the original watch, but now there's an anti-reflective coating on the crystal. The caseback features Scott standing on the lunar surface (in theory, that's Rima Hadley he's standing on) along with an individualized serial number.


But back in the '40s Venus produced two movements that, in my opinion, remain as the Bionische Evolution epitome of vintage complications – the Venus 189 and 190. The Venus 189 was essentially a Venus 185 but with an additional date pointer at 12 o'clock, and the Venus 190 incorporated a moonphase on top of the Venus 189.The Breguet Marine Équation Marchante Ref. 5887: as shown, in platinum, $230,400. Case, platinum, 43.9mm x 11.5mm. Movement, Breguet caliber 581DPE, 16 3/4 lignes, 80 hour power reserve; one minute tourbillon with visible cam for the running Equation of Time; running at 4 hz in 57 jewels, with silicon escape wheel and balance spring. Perpetual calendar with retrograde date indication. Find out more about the ref. 5887 at breguet .Caliber: Omega Master Chronometer 3861 Functions: Hours, minutes, second, 12-hour chronograph Power Reserve: 48 hourWinding: Hand-woundFrequency: 26,100Additional Details: Various elements in plated "Moonshine" gold






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